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The James Cook Heritage Trail

Solitary Islands

Grade 4: Unspoiled islands off a scenic sub tropical coast.

Situation: North of Coffs Harbour, New South Wales. Good views from Corindi Beach, approximately 20km north of Coffs Harbour.

Coordinates (decimal): South Solitary Island 30.20 S 153.27 E

Endeavour Journal – 15 May 1770:

Between 2 and 4 [PM] we had some small rocky Islands between us and the land, the southernmost lies in the latitude of 30.10 and the northermost in 29.58 and about 2 Leagues or more from the land… At 9 oClock [AM] being about a League from the land we saw upon it People and smook in several places. At Noon we were by observation in the Latitude of 28.39 S…

Joseph Banks’ Journal provides a more detailed description of the Aboriginal people seen:

The land in the Morning was high but before noon it became lower and was in general well wooded. Some people were seen, about 20, each of which carried upon his back a large bundle of something which we conjecturd to be palm leaves for covering their houses; we observd them with glasses for near an hour during which time they walkd upon the beach and then up a path over a gently sloping hill, behind which we lost sight of them. Not one was once observd to stop and look towards the ship; they pursued their way in all appearance intirely unmovd by the neighbourhood of so remarkable an object as a ship must necessarily be to a people who have never seen one.

From the data available it is hard to pinpoint the place where the Aboriginal people were seen, but from the distance run according to Cook’s Log it would have been near today’s Ballina.

Cook names the ‘small rocky islands’ on his chart as Solitary Isles. The name was well chosen in that the islands are well spread. According to Historical Records of NSW, Vol 1, Part 1:

Cook does not appear to have seen the southernmost of the islands, which is now known as Split Solitary, and which lies closer inshore than the others… The complete isolation of these islands, from themselves as well as from the mainland was doubtless heightened by the fact that night was fast closing in when they were sighted.

The final statement seems unlikely as Cook says he had the islands between the ship and the land from 2 to 4 p.m.

Excellent views of the Solitary Islands can be had from Corindi Beach, approximately 20km north of Coffs Harbour. Follow the signs to Reflections Holiday Parks, Corindi Beach and public reserve, which have the same entrance. The public reserve is a pleasant cliff top picnic area. From here all of the islands except the southernmost, Split Solitary (missed by Cook) can be seen. To the south, close to the coast, is South West Solitary Island, south and further out to sea is South Solitary Island with its lighthouse. East and slightly north is North West Solitary Island in the foreground. To its left and further offshore is the largest, North Solitary Island, with North West Rock just to its north. To the north and close inshore is North Rock.